A plateful of summer at Mango Tree, Souk al Bahar.

I ate this Thai salmon appetizer the other day that catapulted me into summer. Not Dubai summer – that’s plain brutal and should really be reclassified as a fifth season called HELL. I’m talking about the summery weather you experience in your daydreams to the Bahamas or the Maldives or to Hawaii or to other dreamy exotic places that I’ve never even been to, but that have that characteristic mental image of being sprawled out limp on a beach chair sipping margaritas. That’s where those pink bite-sized cubes of Norwegian salmon nestled in a little cabbage cup transported me.

Salmon Phla...buttery cubes of salmon steeped in lime and lemongrass

First the smooth creamy mouthfeel of high quality salmon [mmm…], and then, as my mind moved past the salmon texture and started seeking out the real flavorful Thai stuff [more, me want mooore…], I suddenly realized, almost as an afterthought , that lemony streams of lemongrass and lime juices had started seeping out of the salmon cubes onto my tongue [hm, wha…? Oh my G…], and that whole lemony combo together with the sudden crunchy bits of red onion and celery lodged between the salmon just slammed me […od, WHAM!], sling shot me right on to that beach chair surrounded by the calming ocean breeze and summer freedom. [Peeeeace out.]

For the OMG, Eureka! moment, this salmon now officially makes my list of Best Seven of 2011. Crazy how quickly this list is filling up, and it’s only February. But do remember – things may always fall off this list if better eats crop up in the months to come.

If someone had told me about this salmon earlier, I’d have got myself to Mango Tree the first time a friend had suggested it a week earlier, no matter that there was no table available till 10pm on a Thursday evening and I’d have become hannibal without dinner by that time of night. I’d actually never heard of Mango Tree till January…it’s one of those popular places that you’d never heard of before, and then suddenly four different people mention it to you in the span of two weeks. The fourth person was one of the organizers of Taste of Dubai, who’s working with a few of us from our local Famished in Arabia blogger group to ensure that we awesome bloggers get some coverage and info about the big event. Which means that we get free tickets. Which means that we get a free lunch at Mango Tree, one of the participating outlets at Taste of Dubai. Which means that we even get a promo code: BLOG that we can give to our readers to get discounted tickets online (though I believe Cobone has better deals). Which DOES NOT MEAN that we will spare them anything other than the brutally honest and non-commercialized truth. So the deal is basically – throw us a couple of free tickets, we’ll cover the event (which we as foodie bloggers would have done ANYWAY), and if it’s good, you’ll get awesome positive coverage. And if it sucks, well then, get ready for the cyber onslaught. It’s a risky proposition all around…except for the bloggers, who get free food and can write whatever they want (and hopefully not get sued a la Kuwait Mark the Blogger case. Which is SO ridiculous that no reaction I can have will ever be appropriate enough to express my utter disgust at Benihana Kuwait for suing Mark. I shall never walk into a Benihana EVER. But I digress…)

So back to free lunch at Mango Tree, where Chef Paul decided to serve us one of his new set lunch menus – 3 appetizers, 3 mains, 1 rice dish, and dessert. While you’d normally pick two courses for AED 79 out of the menu, or three courses for AED 99, we went with all options for all courses. That’s what I’m talking about! Gotta love a man who, rather than serving tried and tested menu favorites to those who may well be some of the pickiest and most vocal foodies in Dubai , is willing to take  risk by the b**** and go all out with a totally new menu. Kudos to you man, that’s called faith. That’s called courage. That could also be called downright stupidity if your dishes flop…but even then, gotta respect the faith.

Anyway, the good thing about starting the meal off on such a high note is that it makes you optimistic about the courses to follow. The bad thing is that it sets the bar too high and then everything else just doesn’t compare. Unless something out of the everything else consists of my favorite Thai green papaya salad with lime and cashews…only, this one was DEEP-FRIED. Brilliant, brilliant strategy. God I hope they serve mounds of this at Taste of Dubai.

Som Tom Tod: a mound of deep-fried Thai green papaya shreds.

The best way to describe this creation is in the words of one of my all-time fav bloggers, Robyn from New York, where she describes a fried squid dish she ate in Chinatown as “A mountainous pile of lightly battered, crispy, tender squid chunks seasoned with salt and pepper and more salt, mixed with strips of bell pepper and onion, cashews, and, methinks, fried garlic.” [I have mentally drooled over this for days…] I hate to plagiarize, but the sum of visual components and textures in Robyn’s description really lent itself well to this dish…a mountainous pile of lightly battered papaya threads, some super crispy, some that were still soft and sweet and mushy, crunchy cashews and green beans, cherry tomatoes and a touch of lime. Maybe some chef can connect the two mountainous dishes to come up with the Mt. Everest of Deep Fried Squid and Papaya, drizzled with some fresh squeezed lime of course. I volunteer to take on the arduous task of scaling that deep fried giant were it ever to be created.And then as predicted, nothing else after these first two plates could be spectacular enough to really wow me. It was all just meh…good, nothing out of this world or meh…I’ve tasted better or meh…this could have been Queen if not for the marinated salmon or deep-fried papaya, but now it’s just a plain lady-in-waiting. For instance the soup, Tom Sap Gai, was a spicy clear soup with chicken chunks, and didn’t really taste of much other than fiery chilli. And of fish sauce, that may not have completely dissolved into the soup and whooshed into my mouth in that first excessively fishy, salty spoonful. I’d talk more about it, but I just got totally distracted with the salmon and papaya, so the poor soup was sent back barely touched.

Tom Sap Gai - fiery clear chicken soup

On the mains, the Tom Yum sea bass was steamed to perfect white flaky tenderness, and surprisingly, even though it just looked like one of those fishes that would be overpoweringly fishy, it was actually quite subtle. What was also subtle – to the point of being non-existent – was the Tom Yum flavor that it touted in the menu. And why would you even need the Tom Yum flavor in the fish, when you’re going to serve an incredibly potent lime dressing on the side that is totally capable of drowning out any other flavors in close proximity? That lime dressing was explosive – use just a drop or two and it’ll add the right spicy-lemony tang to the fish, too much and that poor fish would die a second death on the plate.

Tom Yum Pla Kra Pong...steamed sea bass with explosive lime chilli dressing

Accompanying the mains was some unspectacular veggie egg fried rice, and steamed Bok Choi with crunchy ground cashews and soy sauce. The Bok Choi was quite forgettable…maybe braising the bok choy in more intense garlic and soy would have imparted more memorable flavors…?

Bok Choi sprinkled with ground cashews

Though as part of an overall lunch menu, it’s important to have light subtle side dishes that aren’t trying too hard to get the diner’s full attention, and let you focus on the real protagonists like the fish, or the Nua Nam Man Hoi wok-fried beef. I really had high hopes for this beef, expecting a plate full of beef that was caramelized in some places and crispy in others, sort of like the kind I’d seen made at the ICCA Thai cooking class that I’d attended last year. But other than one caramelized sliver, the beef was just bland and totally anticlimactic. If the salmon appetizer had made me prance about on the beach under the happy summer sun, the beef had left me somewhat cold and gloomy and gray.

Nua Nam Man Hoi...beef with kale and a big spoonful of disappointment

Dessert – chocolate mousse with mango compote. I’m not much of  a mousse person, but this was pretty decent with a nice texture that had the creaminess of mousse but the substantial bite of an ice cream scoop. The tart mangoes and mint leaves were a nice touch, and reigned in the chocolate in a way that kept the dessert light and subtle, an appropriate end after the potent lemony and spicey flavors we’d experienced during the apps and mains.

Chocolate mousse with mango compote

So the verdict – outstanding apps, lackluster mains that don’t wow you, but won’t really offend either, and a decent appropriately subtle yet indulgent dessert. Which altogether might make it a safe, reasonably-priced bet for a company-expensed team lunch if you’re working in the DIFC or Emaar boulevard area. Though what would really win my vote is if Mango Tree released a tapas concept, where it would be perfectly legitimate to just order a few tapas-sized portions of summery salmon and deep fried papaya, and then slink away without having to patronize the rest of the pre fixe menu.

(PS. My fellow foodies at FooDiva and Red Panda Bakes have also documented the lunch on their sites, so definitely worth a read if you’re shopping around for second and third opinions. And special thanks to Red Panda for sharing the names of the dishes…I couldn’t remember them for the life of me and had to refer to her site for the Thai names.).

Mango Tree
3rd Level, Souk Al Bahar, Old Town, Burj Khalifa
Phone: +971 4 4267313

Nua Nam Man Hoi

Author: InaFryingPan

With a family legacy of ingenious cooks, a nutritionist and chef-extraordinaire mother, and a father who introduced me to steak and caviar when I could barely reach the table, I had no choice but to acquire a keen awareness of food during my childhood years in Dubai. But it was only after I found myself on a college campus in Philadelphia – far away from home, too cheap as a student to spend on anything other than pizza, and with dorm rooms that had little rat-holes of kitchens if they even had them at all – when I developed a heightened appreciation of food. An appreciation of food that I once ate every night at the dinner table in Dubai, but that was now an entire ocean away. I lusted for the culinary treasures that lay outside the stale walls of my college dining hall, hijacked friends’ kitchens to try my hand at something, anything , remotely edible, and greedily raided different websites in search of highly-rated restaurants. With my move to New York to work for a consulting firm that secretly harbored self-professed foodies, my appreciation transformed into a passion, an addicition. I felt like everyone around me in New York was talking about food: where to get the best cupcakes, pizza slices, banh mi, kati rolls, pho, fried chicken, and every other food item out there that is just a plain old dish in some part of the world, but that’s become hyped to unforeseen proportions in New York. What fuelled my addiction over time was travel to different cities, both for work and play, which gave me unfettered access to the culinary havens of not only New York, but also of DC, Virginia, Chicago, Houston, Vegas, Austin, Seattle and even a little city called Bentonville (Arkansas!). After 9 years away from home, I’ve finally taken the leap to come back to Dubai – with not just an awareness, but genuine appreciation and passionate addiction for what I’d taken for granted as a child. Mom, I’m back to reclaim my seat at your dinner table, and to rediscover this city with its ever-expanding menu of international flavors.

12 thoughts on “A plateful of summer at Mango Tree, Souk al Bahar.

  1. Sally says:

    Your photos just get better and better – love the one of the waiter. I adored the salmon, but I also liked the soup (it was really well balanced). I would go back to MT – I thought the food was excellent – I really like your idea of a Thai tapas.

  2. Sukaina says:

    Great photos Arva…..I’m just ogling at all their wonderful plates and cutlery. Thanks for organising this for us and like you, I loved the deep fried papaya salad (although it was a tad soggy!).

  3. Maeesha says:

    What happened to the blogger that wrote about Benihana Kuwait..he got sued? Well you shouldn’t be surprised.. at least he did not go to jail or get deported.. u know us Kuwaitis can be quite brutal.
    speaking of Kuwait.. when are you coming here.. you can do some "Kuwait-friendly" blogging. It is Hala Februair plus we are celebrating:
    50 years of independence, 20 years of liberation and 5 years of the new Amir.
    K enough about Kuwait.. the country and in particular, Armaan & I await your arrival with open arms and a red carpet.

    1. InaFryingPan says:

      @Sally – you’ve touched my heart with that comment Sally, thank you! I wonder if it was just my soup that had that clump of fish sauce floating about at the outset…maybe a freak incident. Either way, it’s hard to get me to focus on soup when I have a piled of fritters staring me in the face ;)

      @Sukaina – ah, I remember your asking them about the plates, you’ve really got a keen eye for detail. Plates all the way from Thailand if I remember correctly? That’s intense…I thought I was cool when I graduated from second hands in college to Ikea, and now Home Center. Have a long, long way to go I guess…

      @Maeesha – he’s heading to court in March I believe? It’s horrendous I say, such an outright violation of free speech.
      What is Hala Februair? It sounds pretty fancy, and full of festive goodies…where there is celebration, there must be good food, and where there is good food, I shall scale oceans to be there. (though back to miserable reality, no oceans to be scaled in Feb, have to park myself here in Dubai for work :(…) But maybe in March to see you and Armaan? Hope he’s graduated from Cerelac to the real deal now!

  4. Robyn says:

    I will admit that when I first poked around this post, I scrolled down to look at the photos (because…they are pretty), then stopped at the pile-o-fried stuff because I like fried stuff, then saw a link to the fried squid dish, then thought, "Oo, I recently blogged about a squid dish," and then a second or so later realized it was a link to my post, and then internally blushed. :) Thanks!

    Too bad not all the dishes were A+, but HOORAY FOR FRIED.

  5. reem bsat says:

    Oh my god Arva, I am dying to try this place, which I have been told is great. I guess you convinced me :)

    1. InaFryingPan says:

      @Robyn – I was giddy with excitement this morning – and that too it was a bleh start-of-the-work-week-morning – when I saw your comment on my blog! I LOVE READING YOUR BLOG – there’s something so fun and lighthearted about the way you describe your eating experiences, it keeps me coming back to your site over and over again. Just had to refer to your description of the squid mountain, it stuck in my mind as have many of your other posts. (sorry to embarrass you, but this is like a food blogger’s on-the-flight-next-to-Justin-Bieber moment. no, not a fan of Justin Bieber, but you get what I mean…). Thanks for stopping by Robyn :)

      @Reem – Definitely worth a try Reem, though beware, I would generally heard mixed reviews about Mango Tree before going there myself…and as I have noted in my post, there were great hits on the menu, but also some disappointing misses. Would recommend going there for lunch when there are fewer people. It’s calmer at that time of day, and you can get more attentive service (I have been told that their lunch and dinner menu is practically the same). Plus their lunch prix fixe menu lets you sample a range of things for a pretty reasonable price. Do let me know what you think of the place if you get a chance to try.

  6. Saleem says:

    Seeing the photos one gets tempted to explore and reading your experience of eating makes one hungry – hope you take us their to try.

  7. Tarek Meah says:

    From one photographer to another, amazing results! Wish I was shooting in Dubai – Keep up the great clicks

    1. InaFryingPan says:

      @Saleem – you bet, added this on the list for lunch places. Wouldn’t venture there for dinner though, would much rather do their prix fixe lunch than the dinner a la carte.

      @Tarek – aw thank you! do you have your photos up on a site somewhere too?

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